Loppers

Loppers

Choosing the Right Loppers for the Job

Choosing the right loppers can feel a bit overwhelming with so many options available. But taking a few minutes to consider the task at hand can save you a lot of frustration and even potential injury down the road. It really boils down to three main factors: branch size, type of cut, and your own comfort.


First, think about the size of the branches you'll be tackling. Loppers are designed for branches thicker than what pruning shears can handle, generally anything from about ½ inch up to 2 or even 3 inches depending on the lopper type. Using loppers that are too small for the job will force you to strain, potentially damaging the tool and possibly yourself. Conversely, using overly large loppers on small branches can be clumsy and lead to inaccurate cuts.


Next, consider the type of cut you need to make. Bypass loppers, with their scissor-like blades, are ideal for clean cuts on live wood, promoting healthy growth. Anvil loppers, on the other hand, crush the branch slightly as they cut, making them better suited for dead or diseased wood. For thicker branches, ratchet loppers offer a mechanical advantage, making the cutting process easier and requiring less force.


Finally, and perhaps most importantly, consider your own comfort. Loppers come in various handle lengths and materials. Longer handles provide more leverage but can be cumbersome in tight spaces. Choose handles that feel comfortable in your hands and that you can grip securely. Lightweight materials like aluminum can reduce fatigue, especially during extended pruning sessions.


Choosing the right loppers doesn't have to be complicated. By considering these three key factors – branch size, cut type, and your own comfort – you can select the perfect tool to make pruning a more efficient and enjoyable experience.

Loppers are a fantastic tool for keeping your garden tidy and your trees and shrubs healthy, but like any tool, they're most effective when used correctly. Employing the right techniques can make the difference between a clean cut that heals quickly and a ragged tear that invites disease.


First and foremost, choose the right loppers for the job. Bypass loppers, with their scissor-like action, are ideal for green, living wood, while anvil loppers are better suited for dead or thicker branches. Using the wrong type can damage the blades and make clean cuts difficult. Once you've got the appropriate loppers, ensure they're sharp. Dull blades crush rather than cut, leading to unhealthy wounds on your plants. A sharp blade makes a clean, swift cut, promoting quicker healing.


Next, consider your cutting technique. For branches up to an inch thick, position the branch deep within the lopper blades, close to the hinge for maximum leverage. This allows for a clean cut with minimal effort. For thicker branches, you might need a saw, as forcing loppers beyond their capacity can damage both the tool and the plant. Always cut just above a bud or branch collar – the slightly swollen area at the base of a branch. This encourages proper healing and prevents decay.


When tackling larger branches, a three-cut method is recommended to prevent tearing the bark. First, make an undercut about halfway through the branch a few inches away from the trunk. Then, make a second cut from above, slightly further out from the trunk, to remove the bulk of the branch. Finally, make a clean pruning cut just outside the branch collar. This technique minimizes stress on the tree and promotes a healthy, aesthetically pleasing result.


Finally, regular maintenance of your loppers is key. After each use, wipe the blades clean and apply a light coat of oil to prevent rust. Sharpen the blades regularly to maintain their effectiveness. By following these simple techniques, you can ensure your loppers remain a valuable tool in your gardening arsenal, keeping your plants healthy and your garden looking its best.

Citations and other links

Maintaining and Sharpening Loppers

Keeping your loppers in top shape is like keeping a good kitchen knife sharp – it makes the job easier and the results cleaner. Neglecting them leads to frustration, crushed branches, and ultimately, a shorter lifespan for your tools. So, how do you maintain and sharpen those trusty loppers?


First, after each use, give them a good wipe down. Sap, dirt, and plant debris can build up, leading to rust and hindering performance. A simple wipe with a damp cloth, followed by a dry one, usually does the trick. For tougher grime, use a wire brush or a bit of horticultural oil.


Regularly oiling the moving parts – the pivot bolt and the cutting blade mechanism – is crucial. A few drops of lubricating oil will keep things moving smoothly and prevent rust. You can even use WD-40 in a pinch, but a dedicated lubricating oil is preferable.


Now, for the sharpening. A sharp blade makes clean cuts, which are healthier for your plants. Dull blades crush and tear, leaving wounds susceptible to disease. You can use a sharpening stone, a file specifically designed for loppers, or even a rotary tool with a grinding attachment. The key is to maintain the original bevel angle of the blade. If you're unsure, it's best to consult a professional sharpener or watch a tutorial. Don't be afraid to practice on an old branch first!


Finally, proper storage is essential. Store your loppers in a dry place, preferably hanging them up to prevent the blades from contacting the ground. If storing them for an extended period, consider applying a thin coat of oil to the blades to prevent rust.


Taking care of your loppers isn't rocket science, but it's a small investment of time that pays off big in the long run. With a little regular maintenance and sharpening, your loppers will remain reliable and effective for years to come, making your gardening tasks a breeze.

Maintaining and Sharpening Loppers

Safety Precautions When Using Loppers

Loppers are fantastic tools for taming unruly bushes and small trees, but like any tool with sharp blades, they demand respect. Ignoring safety precautions can lead to nasty accidents, so let's talk about how to wield these powerful pruners responsibly.


First and foremost, inspect your loppers before each use. Look for any damage like cracks in the blades or loose hinges. A compromised tool is a dangerous tool. Make sure the blades are sharp; a dull blade requires more force, increasing the risk of slipping. And speaking of sharp blades, always treat them as such. Never carry loppers with the blades open, and when you set them down, make sure the blades are facing away from you and anyone else nearby.


Protecting your body is crucial. Wear sturdy gloves to prevent blisters and protect your hands from thorns and accidental cuts. Eye protection is also a must; flying debris, especially small twigs, can easily injure your eyes. Consider long sleeves and pants to shield your skin from scratches.


When you're ready to start lopping, be mindful of your surroundings. Clear the area of any obstacles that might cause you to trip or lose your balance. Make sure no one is standing nearby, particularly children or pets. And always be aware of where the blades are going to go if they slip or the branch breaks unexpectedly. Cut away from your body, and never reach too far – overreaching can compromise your balance and control.


Finally, after you're finished, clean your loppers and store them safely. Wipe off any sap or debris, and apply a light coat of oil to the blades to prevent rust. Store them in a dry place, preferably with a blade guard or in a sheath, out of reach of children.


Using loppers safely boils down to common sense and a little bit of preparation. By following these simple precautions, you can enjoy the benefits of these powerful tools while keeping yourself and those around you safe.

An arborist using a chainsaw to cut a eucalyptus tree in a public park
Arborists in Ontario
Two arborists climbing and dismantling a Norway Maple in Ontario, Canada

An arborist, or (less commonly) arboriculturist, is a professional in the practice of arboriculture, which is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants in dendrology and horticulture.[citation needed]

Arborists generally focus on the health and safety of individual plants and trees, rather than managing forests or harvesting wood (silviculture or forestry). An arborist's scope of work is therefore distinct from that of either a forester or a logger.[citation needed]

Scope of work

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An ISA Certified municipal arborist examining a Japanese Hemlock at Hoyt Arboretum in Portland, Oregon

In order for arborists to work near power wires, either additional training is required or they need to be certified as a Qualified Line Clearance Arborist or Utility Arborist (there may be different terminology for various countries). There is a variety of minimum distances that must be kept from power wires depending on voltage, however the common distance for low voltage lines in urban settings is 10 feet (about 3 metres).[1]

Arborists who climb (as not all do) can use a variety of techniques to ascend into the tree. The least invasive, and most popular technique used is to ascend on rope. There are two common methods of climbing, Single Rope System (SRS) and Moving Rope System (MRS). When personal safety is an issue, or the tree is being removed, arborists may use 'spikes', (also known as 'gaffs' or 'spurs') attached to their chainsaw boots with straps to ascend and work. Spikes wound the tree, leaving small holes where each step has been.[citation needed]

An arborist's work may involve very large and complex trees, or ecological communities and their abiotic components in the context of the landscape ecosystem. These may require monitoring and treatment to ensure they are healthy, safe, and suitable to property owners or community standards. This work may include some or all of the following: planting; transplanting; pruning; structural support; preventing, or diagnosing and treating phytopathology or parasitism; preventing or interrupting grazing or predation; installing lightning protection; and removing vegetation deemed as hazardous, an invasive species, a disease vector, or a weed.[citation needed]

Arborists may also plan, consult, write reports and give legal testimony. While some aspects of this work are done on the ground or in an office, much of it is done by arborists who perform tree services and who climb the trees with ropes, harnesses and other equipment. Lifts and cranes may be used too. The work of all arborists is not the same. Some may just provide a consulting service; others may perform climbing, pruning and planting: whilst others may provide a combination of all of these services.[2]

Qualifications

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An arborist disassembling a tree using a crane and bucket

Arborists gain qualifications to practice arboriculture in a variety of ways and some arborists are more qualified than others. Experience working safely and effectively in and around trees is essential. Arborists tend to specialize in one or more disciplines of arboriculture, such as diagnosis and treatment of pests, diseases and nutritional deficiencies in trees, climbing and pruning, cabling and lightning protection, or consultation and report writing. All these disciplines are related to one another and some arborists are very well experienced in all areas of tree work, however not all arborists have the training or experience to properly practice every discipline.[citation needed]

Arborists choose to pursue formal certification, which is available in some countries and varies somewhat by location. An arborist who holds certification in one or more disciplines may be expected to participate in rigorous continuing education requirements to ensure constant improvement of skills and techniques.[citation needed]

In Australia, arboricultural education and training are streamlined countrywide through a multi-disciplinary vocational education, training, and qualification authority called the Australian Qualifications Framework, which offers varying levels of professional qualification. Government institutions including Technical and Further Education TAFE offer Certificate III or a diploma in arboriculture as well as some universities.[3][4] There are also many private institutions covering similar educational framework in each state. Recognition of prior learning is also an option for practicing arborists with 10 or more years of experience with no prior formal training. It allows them to be assessed and fast track their certification.[citation needed]

In France, a qualified arborist must hold a Management of Ornamental Trees certificate, and a qualified arborist climber must hold a Pruning and Care of Trees certificate; both delivered by the French Ministry of Agriculture.[5][6]

In the UK, an arborist can gain qualifications up to and including a master's degree. College-based courses include further education qualifications, such as national certificate, national diploma, while higher education courses in arboriculture include foundation degree, bachelor's degree and master's degree.[citation needed]

In the US, a Certified Arborist (CA) is a professional who has over three years of documented and verified experience and has passed a rigorous written test from the International Society of Arboriculture. Other designations include Municipal Specialist, Utility Specialist and Board Certified Master Arborist (BCMA). The USA and Canada additionally have college-based training which, if passed, will give the certificate of Qualified Arborist. The Qualified Arborist can then be used to offset partial experience towards the Certified Arborist.

Tree Risk Assessment Qualified credential (TRAQ), designed by the International Society of Arboriculture, was launched in 2013. At that time people holding the TRACE credential were transferred over to the TRAQ credential.[citation needed]

In Canada, there are provincially governed apprenticeship programs that allow arborists' to work near power lines upon completion. These apprenticeship programs must meet the provincial reregulations (For example, in B.C. they must meet WorkSafeBC G19.30), and individuals must ensure they meet the requirements of the owner of the power system.[citation needed]

Cultural practices

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Arborists may use specialised vehicles to gain access to trees, such as this Unimog equipped with a power take-off driven woodchipper

Trees in urban landscape settings are often subject to disturbances, whether human or natural, both above and below ground. They may require care to improve their chances of survival following damage from either biotic or abiotic causes. Arborists can provide appropriate solutions, such as pruning trees for health and good structure, for aesthetic reasons, and to permit people to walk under them (a technique often referred to as "crown raising"), or to keep them away from wires, fences and buildings (a technique referred to as "crown reduction").[7] Timing and methods of treatment depend on the species of tree and the purpose of the work. To determine the best practices, a thorough knowledge of local species and environments is essential.[citation needed]

There can be a vast difference between the techniques and practices of professional arborists and those of inadequately trained tree workers. Some commonly offered "services" are considered unacceptable by modern arboricultural standards and may seriously damage, disfigure, weaken, or even kill trees. One such example is tree topping, lopping, or "hat-racking", where entire tops of trees or main stems are removed, generally by cross-cutting the main stem(s) or leaders, leaving large unsightly stubs. Trees that manage to survive such treatment are left prone to a spectrum of detrimental effects, including vigorous but weakly attached regrowth, pest susceptibility, pathogen intrusion, and internal decay.[8]

Pruning should only be done with a specific purpose in mind. Every cut is a wound, and every leaf lost is removal of photosynthetic potential. Proper pruning can be helpful in many ways, but should always be done with the minimum amount of live tissue removed.[9]

In recent years, research has proven that wound dressings such as paint, tar or other coverings are unnecessary and may harm trees. The coverings may encourage growth of decay-causing fungi. Proper pruning, by cutting through branches at the right location, can do more to limit decay than wound dressing [10]

Chemicals can be applied to trees for insect or disease control through soil application, stem injections or spraying. Compacted or disturbed soils can be improved in various ways.[citation needed]

Arborists can also assess trees to determine the health, structure, safety or feasibility within a landscape and in proximity to humans. Modern arboriculture has progressed in technology and sophistication from practices of the past. Many current practices are based on knowledge gained through recent research, including that of Alex Shigo, considered one "father" of modern arboriculture.[11]

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Depending on the jurisdiction, there may be a number of legal issues surrounding the practices of arborists, including boundary issues, public safety issues, "heritage" trees of community value, and "neighbour" issues such as ownership, obstruction of views, impacts of roots crossing boundaries, nuisance problems, disease or insect quarantines, and safety of nearby trees or plants that may be affected.[citation needed]

Arborists are frequently consulted to establish the factual basis of disputes involving trees, or by private property owners seeking to avoid legal liability through the duty of care.[12] Arborists may be asked to assess the value of a tree[13] in the process of an insurance claim for trees damaged or destroyed,[14] or to recover damages resulting from tree theft or vandalism.[15] In cities with tree preservation orders an arborist's evaluation of tree hazard may be required before a property owner may remove a tree, or to assure the protection of trees in development plans and during construction operations. Carrying out work on protected trees and hedges is illegal without express permission from local authorities,[16] and can result in legal action including fines.[17] Homeowners who have entered into contracts with a Homeowner's association (see also Restrictive covenants) may need an arborists' professional opinion of a hazardous condition prior to removing a tree, or may be obligated to assure the protection of the views of neighboring properties prior to planting a tree or in the course of pruning.[18] Arborists may be consulted in forensic investigations where the evidence of a crime can be determined within the growth rings of a tree, for example. Arborists may be engaged by one member of a dispute in order to identify factual information about trees useful to that member of the dispute, or they can be engaged as an expert witness providing unbiased scientific knowledge in a court case. Homeowners associations seeking to write restrictive covenants, or legislative bodies seeking to write laws involving trees, may seek the counsel of arborists in order to avoid future difficulties.[19]

Before undertaking works in the UK, arborists have a legal responsibility to survey trees for wildlife, especially bats, which are given particular legal protection. In addition, any tree in the UK can be covered by a tree preservation order and it is illegal to conduct any work on a tree, including deadwooding or pruning, before permission has been sought from the local council.[citation needed]

Organizations

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  • Australia Limited, a non-profit organisation, is a national organisation promoting and representing tree workers, arborists, professional tree management and urban forestry throughout Australia and the Asia-Pacific region.[20]
  • The Tree Care Industry Association (formerly the National Arborist Association) is a public and professional non-profit organization for the arboriculture field. It has more than 2,000 member companies representing over a dozen countries. TCIA's Accreditation program certifies that tree care companies that have been inspected and accredited based on adherence to industry standards for performance and safety; maintenance of trained, professional staff; and dedication to ethics and quality in business practices. In addition, they provide safety and educational programs, guidelines for tree service operations, ANSI A300 tree pruning standards, and consumer resources.[citation needed]
  • The International Society of Arboriculture, a non-profit organization, maintains a list of ISA Certified Arborists who have passed a written exam and demonstrated a basic level of knowledge in arboriculture.[21] There are also additional classifications of certified arborists with Certified Arborist/Utility Specialist for those who work near power lines, and Certified Arborist/Municipal Specialist for those who deal mostly with community trees. Other certifications exist for Certified Tree Workers, and the highest level of certification, the Board Certified Master Arborist.[citation needed]
  • The American Society of Consulting Arborists is an organization whose membership is exclusive to those with a certain level of industry experience, plus higher educational experience or continuing education; some members may achieve a higher status by fulfilling the requirements to become a Registered Consulting Arborist.[22] Consulting arborists generally specialize in the areas of ethics, law, land planning and development, and tree valuation, among others. Consulting arborists are often called on for legal testimony and report writing in various instances where a particular authority on trees is necessary for consequent actions.
  • In the UK, the professional body representing the sector is the Institute of Chartered Foresters. The trade body representing arborists is the Arboricultural Association. The association maintains a register of consultants who have demonstrated a high level of technical arboricultural knowledge, and operate an Approved Contractor scheme. This scheme assesses both the technical competence and business practices of arboricultural contractors.
  • The European Arboricultural Council is a European group of multiple arboriculture organizations from various countries.
  • Plant Amnesty is a public education and advocacy group, based in Seattle, dedicated to promoting proper pruning methods. Founded in 1987, Plant Amnesty became an international resource for arborists and their clients in the mid-1990s.[23][24]

In literature

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The protagonist in Italo Calvino's novel The Baron in the Trees lives life on the ground as a boy and spends the rest of his life swinging from tree to tree in the Italian countryside. As a young man he helps the local fruit farmers by pruning their trees.[citation needed]

Notable arborists

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Some noteworthy arborists include:

  • Francis A. Bartlett – founded The Bartlett Tree Experts Co., the world's leading scientific tree and shrub care company in 1907.
  • John Chapman – pioneering U.S. frontier nurseryman and orchardist, commonly known as Johnny Appleseed.
  • Canopy Cat Rescue[25] – rescues domestic cats from tall trees; appears on Treetop Cat Rescue.
  • Sebastian Junger – author of Perfect Storm and War. Previous to becoming a journalist, Sebastian was an arborist in Massachusetts.
  • Chuck Leavell – two-time recipient of the Georgia Tree Farmer of the Year award, and author of the children's book, The Tree Farmer. In 2006 Leavell was appointed by Governor Sonny Perdue to the Georgia Land Conservation Council. He is also an accomplished jazz pianist and keyboardist for the Rolling Stones.[26]
  • Alex Shigo – considered the father of modern arboriculture.
  • David Mitchell - Devon born tree inspector and veteran tree expert
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See also

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References

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  1. ^ American National Standards Institute Z.133- and International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers.
  2. ^ Harris, Richard W., James R. Clark, and Nelda P. Matheny: Arboriculture Integrated Management of Landscape Trees, Shrubs, and Vines, third edition; Prentice-Hall, Inc. 1999.
  3. ^ "Becoming an Arborist". Victorian Skills Gateway. Archived from the original on 2018-03-16. Retrieved 2018-03-15.
  4. ^ "Graduate Certificate in Arboriculture". University of Melbourne. Retrieved 2018-03-15.
  5. ^ "Les formations qualifiantes des arboristes : certificat de spécialisation CS " taille et soin des arbres "". Copalme (in French). Retrieved 2018-03-15.
  6. ^ "Le CFPPA à l'action sur le domaine Paul-Riquet - Enseignement et formation - Un vrai chantier pour les lycéens". La Dépêche (in French). February 23, 2017. Retrieved 2018-03-15.
  7. ^ "Pruning Standards to Maintain Landscape Trees (3)". E. Thomas Smiley, Ph. D., Plant Pathologist and Bruce R. Fraedrich, Ph. D., Plant Pathologist; Bartlett Tree Research Laboratory.
  8. ^ "Follow Proper Pruning Techniques | Earth-Kind® Landscaping". aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu.
  9. ^ "Access Trees Home". treesaccess.com. Archived from the original on 2022-03-22. Retrieved 2022-03-30.
  10. ^ https://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=1923&Type=2, Wound dressings results of studies over 13 years
  11. ^ Alex Shigo pioneered tree-friendly pruning by Ron Sullivan; San Francisco Chronicle November 15, 2006.
  12. ^ Common Law Branches Off Into New Directions; by Victor D. Merullo; Journal of Arboriculture 20(6): November 1994.
  13. ^ Landscape Tree Appraisal by David P. Mooter, et al.; University of Nebraska–Lincoln Extension; March 2004.
  14. ^ Guide for Plant Appraisal, 9th ed; by the Council of Tree and Landscape Appraisers; International Society of Arboriculture; 2000.
  15. ^ See also specific legal provisions for "tree theft" such as, for example, the Revised Code of Washington title 64.12.030 for Washington (State, USA) or similar state, provincial, or local statutes.
  16. ^ "A Guide To The Laws Of Arboriculture & Tree Legislations". Surrey Tree Surgery. Archived from the original on 4 April 2014. Retrieved 4 April 2014.
  17. ^ "Businessman fined £28,000 for felling protected yew tree". The Daily Telegraph. London. 3 June 2013. Archived from the original on 6 June 2013. Retrieved 4 April 2014.
  18. ^ Arboriculture and the Law in Canada by Julian Dunster and Susan Murray; International Society of Arboriculture; 1997.
  19. ^ Arboriculture and the Law by Victor D. Merrullo; International Society of Arboriculture; 1992.
  20. ^ "About Us". arboriculture.org.au. Archived from the original on 2016-08-08. Retrieved 2016-07-22.
  21. ^ "Verify an ISA Certification / Find a Tree Care Service". International Society of Arboriculture. Archived from the original on 27 March 2014. Retrieved 4 April 2014.
  22. ^ "American Society of Consulting Arborists – Registered Consulting Arborist". Archived from the original on 2003-02-28. Retrieved 2008-04-29.
  23. ^ "The Seattle Times: Pacific Northwest Magazine". The Seattle Times.
  24. ^ Young, Paul. "Bakersfield CA Local Online Stock Brokerage Firms | Berkeley Daily". Archived from the original on 2020-08-09. Retrieved 2019-11-08.
  25. ^ "Cat stuck in a tree in Washington". Canopy Cat Rescue. Archived from the original on 2019-11-08. Retrieved 2019-11-08.
  26. ^ "Chuck Leavell - Trees". chuckleavell.com. Archived from the original on 2007-07-03. Retrieved 2007-07-21.
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An arborist practicing tree care: using a chainsaw to fell a eucalyptus tree in a park at Kallista, Victoria.

Arboriculture (/ˈɑːrbərɪˌkʌltʃər, ɑːrˈbɔːr-/)[1] is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants. The science of arboriculture studies how these plants grow and respond to cultural practices and to their environment. The practice of arboriculture includes cultural techniques such as selection, planting, training, fertilization, pest and pathogen control, pruning, shaping, and removal.

Overview

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A person who practices or studies arboriculture can be termed an arborist or an arboriculturist. A tree surgeon is more typically someone who is trained in the physical maintenance and manipulation of trees and therefore more a part of the arboriculture process rather than an arborist. Risk management, legal issues, and aesthetic considerations have come to play prominent roles in the practice of arboriculture. Businesses often need to hire arboriculturists to complete "tree hazard surveys" and generally manage the trees on-site to fulfill occupational safety and health obligations.[citation needed]

Arboriculture is primarily focused on individual woody plants and trees maintained for permanent landscape and amenity purposes, usually in gardens, parks or other populated settings, by arborists, for the enjoyment, protection, and benefit of people.[citation needed]

Arboricultural matters are also considered to be within the practice of urban forestry yet the clear and separate divisions are not distinct or discreet.[citation needed]

Tree Benefits

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Tree benefits are the economic, ecological, social and aesthetic use, function purpose, or services of a tree (or group of trees), in its situational context in the landscape.

Environmental Benefits

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  • Erosion control and soil retention
  • Improved water infiltration and percolation
  • Protection from exposure: windbreak, shade, impact from hail/rainfall
  • Air humidification
  • Modulates environmental conditions in a given microclimate: shields wind, humidifies, provides shade
  • Carbon sequestration and oxygen production

Ecological Benefits

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  • Attracting pollinators
  • Increased biodiversity
  • Food for decomposers, consumers, and pollinators
  • Soil health: organic matter accumulation from leaf litter and root exudates (symbiotic microbes)
  • Ecological habitat

Socioeconomic Benefits

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  • Increases employment: forestry, education, tourism
  • Run-off and flood control (e.g. bioswales, plantings on slopes)
  • Aesthetic beauty: parks, gatherings, social events, tourism, senses (fragrance, visual), focal point
  • Adds character and prestige to the landscape, creating a "natural" feel
  • Climate control (e.g shade): can reduce energy consumption of buildings
  • Privacy and protection: from noise, wind
  • Cultural benefits: eg. memorials for a loved one
  • Medical benefits: eg. Taxus chemotherapy
  • Materials: wood for building, paper pulp
  • Fodder for livestock
  • Property value: trees can increase by 10–20%[citation needed]
  • Increases the amount of time customers will spend in a mall, strip mall, shopping district[citation needed]

Tree Defects

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A tree defect is any feature, condition, or deformity of a tree that indicates weak structure or instability that could contribute to tree failure.

Common types of tree defects:

Codominant stems: two or more stems that grow upward from a single point of origin and compete with one another.

  • common with decurrent growth habits
  • occurs in excurrent trees only after the leader is killed and multiple leaders compete for dominance

Included bark: bark is incorporated in the joint between two limbs, creating a weak attachment

  • occurs in branch unions with a high attachment angle (i.e. v-shaped unions)
  • common in many columnar/fastigiate growing deciduous trees

Dead, diseased, or broken branches:

  • woundwood cannot grow over stubs or dead branches to seal off decay
  • symptoms/signs of disease: e.g. oozing through the bark, sunken areas in the bark, and bark with abnormal patterns or colours, stunted new growth, discolouration of the foliage

Cracks

  • longitudinal cracks result from interior decay, bark rips/tears, or torsion from wind load
  • transverse cracks result from buckled wood, often caused by unnatural loading on branches, such as lion's tailing.
  • Seams: bark edges meet at a crack or wound
  • Ribs: bulges, indicating interior cracks

Cavity and hollows: sunken or open areas wherein a tree has suffered injury followed by decay. Further indications include: fungal fruiting structures, insect or animal nests.

Lean: a lean of more than 40% from vertical presents a risk of tree failure

Taper: change in diameter over the length of trunks branches and roots

Epicormic branches (water sprouts in canopy or suckers from root system): often grow in response to major damage or excessive pruning

Roots:

  • girdling roots compress the trunk, leading to poor trunk taper, and restrict vascular flow
  • kinked roots provide poor structural support; the kink is a site of potential root failure
  • circling roots occurs when roots encounter obstructions/limitations such as a small tree well or being grown too long in a nursery pot; these cannot provide adequate structural support and are limited in accessing nutrients and water
  • healthy soil texture and depth, drainage, water availability, makes for healthy roots

Tree Installation

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Proper tree installation ensures the long-term viability of the tree and reduces the risk of tree failure.

Quality nursery stock must be used. There must be no visible damage or sign of disease. Ideally the tree should have good crown structure. A healthy root ball should not have circling roots and new fibrous roots should be present at the soil perimeter. Girdling or circling roots should be pruned out. Excess soil above the root flare should be removed immediately, since it presents a risk of disease ingress into the trunk.

Appropriate time of year to plant: generally fall or early spring in temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.

Planting hole: the planting hole should be 3 times the width of the root ball. The hole should be dug deep enough that when the root ball is placed on the substrate, the root flare is 3–5cm above the surrounding soil grade. If soil is left against the trunk, it may lead to bark, cambium and wood decay. Angular sides to the planting hole will encourage roots to grow radially from the trunk, rather than circling the planting hole. In urban settings, soil preparation may include the use of:

  • Silva cells: suspended pavement over modular cells containing soil for root development
  • Structural soils: growing medium composed of 80% crushed rock and 20% loam, which supports surface load without it leading to soil compaction

Tree wells: a zone of mulch can be installed around the tree trunk to: limit root zone competition (from turf or weeds), reduce soil compaction, improve soil structure, conserve moisture, and keep lawn equipment at a distance. No more than 5–10cm of mulch should be used to avoid suffocating the roots. Mulch must be kept approximately 20cm from the trunk to avoid burying the root flare. With city trees additional tree well preparation includes:

Tree grates/grill and frames: limit compaction on root zone and mechanical damage to roots and trunk

Root barriers: forces roots to grow down under surface asphalt/concrete/pavers to limit infrastructure damage from roots

Staking: newly planted, immature trees should be staked for one growing season to allow for the root system to establish. Staking for longer than one season should only be considered in situations where the root system has failed to establish sufficient structural support. Guy wires can be used for larger, newly planted trees. Care must be used to avoid stem girdling from the support system ties.

Irrigation: irrigation infrastructure may be installed to ensure a regular water supply throughout the lifetime of the tree. Wicking beds are an underground reservoir from which water is wicked into soil. Watering bags may be temporarily installed around tree stakes to provide water until the root system becomes established. Permeable paving allows for water infiltration in paved urban settings, such as parks and walkways.

UK

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Within the United Kingdom trees are considered as a material consideration within the town planning system and may be conserved as amenity landscape[2] features.

The role of the Arborist or Local Government Arboricultural Officer is likely to have a great effect on such matters. Identification of trees of high quality which may have extensive longevity is a key element in the preservation of trees.

Urban and rural trees may benefit from statutory protection under the Town and Country Planning[3] system. Such protection can result in the conservation and improvement of the urban forest as well as rural settlements.

Historically the profession divides into the operational and professional areas. These might be further subdivided into the private and public sectors. The profession is broadly considered as having one trade body known as the Arboricultural Association, although the Institute of Chartered Foresters offers a route for professional recognition and chartered arboriculturist status.

The qualifications associated with the industry range from vocational to Doctorate. Arboriculture is a comparatively young industry.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ "arboriculture". Dictionary.com Unabridged (Online). n.d.
  2. ^ "Amenity landscapes • Environment Guide". www.environmentguide.org.nz. Retrieved 2020-04-28.
  3. ^ "Town and Country Planning Association". Town and Country Planning Association. Retrieved 2020-04-28.
  • Harris, Richard W. (1983). Arboriculture: Care of Trees, Shrubs, and Vines in the Landscape. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-Hall, Inc. pp. 2–3. ISBN 0-13-043935-5.
  • "arboriculture". Merriam-Webster's Collegiate Dictionary, Eleventh Edition. Merriam-Webster.
  • "arboriculture". Encyclopædia Britannica Online. 2007.
  • "arboriculture". The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language, Fourth Edition Online. Houghton Mifflin Company. 2000.
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Two workers pruning street trees in London during World War I

Pruning is a horticultural, arboricultural, and silvicultural practice involving the selective removal of certain parts of a plant, such as branches, buds, or roots.

The practice entails the targeted removal of diseased, damaged, dead, non-productive, structurally unsound, or otherwise unwanted plant material from crop and landscape plants. In general, the smaller the branch that is cut, the easier it is for a woody plant to compartmentalize the wound and thus limit the potential for pathogen intrusion and decay. It is therefore preferable to make any necessary formative structural pruning cuts to young plants, rather than removing large, poorly placed branches from mature plants.

Woody plants may undergo a process referred to as "self-pruning", where they will drop twigs or branches which are no longer producing more energy than they require. It is theorized that this process can also occur in response to lack of water, in order to reduce the surface area where water can be lost.[1] This natural shedding of branches is called cladoptosis.

Specialized pruning practices may be applied to certain plants, such as roses, fruit trees, and grapevines. Different pruning techniques may be used on herbaceous plants than those used on perennial woody plants.

Reasons to prune plants include deadwood removal, shaping (by controlling or redirecting growth), improving or sustaining health, reducing risk from falling branches, preparing nursery specimens for transplanting, and both harvesting and increasing the yield or quality of flowers and fruits.

Pruning terms

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Branch wood, trunk wood, branch collar, branch bark ridge clearly identified on a tree.
 

Branch wood

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Branch wood is an individual stem that grows off of another stem.

Trunk wood

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Trunk wood is the main stem of a tree which individual stems grow out of.

This refers to the area below the union of where branch wood attaches with the trunk/stem wood. This can often appear raised.

Branch bark ridge

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This refers to the junction between branch wood and trunk/stem wood. It usually looks raised. [2]

Types of Pruning

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An arborist pruning a tree near the Statue of Liberty

Pruning in an urban setting is crucial due to the tree being in drastically different conditions than where it naturally grows.[3]

Arborists, orchardists, and gardeners use various garden tools and tree cutting tools designed for the purpose, such as secateurs, loppers, handsaws, or chainsaws.[4] Additionally in forestry, pole pruners (averruncators in British English) and pole saws are commonly used, and these are often attached to poles that reach up to 5–6 m (16–20 ft). This is a more efficient and safer way of pruning than with ladders. These bush saws on polls have also been motorized as chainsaws which is even more efficient. Older technology used Billhooks, Kaiser blades, and pruning knives. Although still used in some coppicing, they are not used so much in commercial forestry due to the difficulty of cutting flush with the stem. Flush cuts happen when a pruner cuts into the cambium layer of the main trunk, which can happen when a pruner is not precise with pruning cuts, and removes a portion of the branch collar, which can put the tree at risk of entry cords from forest pathogens.

Although there are several different types of pruning, they can be simplified into two categories. One of which is cutting the branch back to a specific and intermediate point, called a "reduction cut", and the other of which is completely removing a branch back to the union where the branch connects which the main trunk, called "removal cut".[5]

Dense growth results after shearing

A "reduction cut" is when one removes a portion of a growing stem down to a set of desirable buds or side-branching stems. This is commonly performed in well trained plants for a variety of reasons, for example to stimulate growth of flowers, fruit or branches, as a preventive measure to wind and snow damage on long stems and branches, and finally to encourage growth of the stems in a desirable direction.

  • Thinning: A more drastic form of pruning, a thinning out cut, is the removal of an entire shoot, limb, or branch at its point of origin.[5] This is usually employed to revitalize a plant by removing over-mature, weak, problematic, and excessive growths. When performed correctly, thinning encourages the formation of new growth that will more readily bear fruit and flowers. This is a common technique in pruning roses and for amplifying and "opening-up" the branching of neglected trees, or for renewing shrubs with multiple branches.
  • Topping: Topping is a very severe form of pruning which involves removing all branches and growths down to a few large branches or to the trunk of the tree. When performed correctly it is used on very young trees, and can be used to begin training younger trees for pollarding or for trellising to form an espalier.
  • Raising removes the lower branches from a tree in order to provide clearance for buildings, vehicles, pedestrians, and vistas. [6]
  • Reduction reduces the size of a tree, often for clearance for utility lines. Reducing the height or spread of a tree is best accomplished by pruning back the leaders and branch terminals to lateral branches that are large enough to assume the terminal roles (at least one-third the diameter of the cut stem). Compared to topping, reduction helps maintain the form and structural integrity of the tree.[7]

In orchards, fruit trees are often lopped to encourage regrowth and to maintain a smaller tree for ease of picking fruit. The pruning regime in orchards is more planned, and the productivity of each tree is an important factor.

Deadwooding

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Branches die off for a number of reasons including sunlight deficiency, pest and disease damage, and root structure damage. A dead branch will at some point decay back to the parent stem and fall off. This is normally a slow process but can be hastened by high winds or extreme temperatures. The main reason deadwooding is performed is safety. Situations that usually demand removal of deadwood include trees that overhang public roads, houses, public areas, power lines, telephone cables and gardens. Trees located in wooded areas are usually assessed as lower risk but assessments consider the number of visitors. Trees adjacent to footpaths and access roads are often considered for deadwood removal.[8]

Another reason for deadwooding is amenity value, i.e. a tree with a large amount of deadwood throughout the crown will look more aesthetically pleasing with the deadwood removed. The physical practice of deadwooding can be carried out most of the year though should be avoided when the tree is coming into leaf. The deadwooding process speeds up the tree's natural abscission process. It also reduces unwanted weight and wind resistance and can help overall balance.

Preventive structural pruning

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Preventative and structural pruning can be done to mitigate several issues young trees may have in the future. The structural pruning can reduce tree stress, increase the lifespan of trees, and promotes resistance to damage due to natural weather events. Attributes of trees with good structure include excurrent growth by having a single dominant leader, branch unions without included bark, and a balanced canopy. Structural pruning does this by developing or maintaining a dominant leader, identify the lowest branches in the canopy, prevent branches below the permanent canopy from growing too large, keeping all branches less than one half the trunk diameter, space main branches along one dominant trunk, and suppress growth on branches with included bark. [9]

Subordination pruning

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Subordination pruning is done on limbs that will exceed 50% percent of the stem diameter. A reduction cut may be performed while still allowing about 50% of the branch. This is done to help maintain form and deter the formation of co-dominant leaders. Temporary branches may be too large for a removal cut so subordination pruning should be done to slowly reduce a limb by 50% each year to allow the tree to properly heal from the cut. As a tree becomes larger the slower it grows. Reducing the larger limbs for eventual removal will allow for the tree to promote new growth rather than using energy in encouraging unwanted limbs to continue to grow. Removing a large branch increases the likelihood of the cut to not heal properly which also may attract insects, diseases and fungus. [9][10]

Crown thinning

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Crown thinning is the removal of live healthy branches which increases light penetration, air circulation and reduces wind resistance which reduces risks from damage and the possibility of pest infestation. [11]

Crown raising

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Crown raising involves the removal of the lower branches to a given height. The height is achieved by the removal of whole branches or removing the parts of branches which extend below the desired height. The branches are normally not lifted to more than one third of the tree's total height.

Crown lifting is done for access; these being pedestrian, vehicle or space for buildings and street furniture. Lifting the crown will allow traffic and pedestrians to pass underneath safely. This pruning technique is usually used in the urban environment as it is for public safety and aesthetics rather than tree form and timber value.

Crown lifting introduces light to the lower part of the trunk; this, in some species can encourage epicormic growth from dormant buds. To reduce this sometimes smaller branches are left on the lower part of the trunk. Excessive removal of the lower branches can displace the canopy weight, this will make the tree top heavy, therefore adding stress to the tree. When a branch is removed from the trunk, it creates a large wound. This wound is susceptible to disease and decay, and could lead to reduced trunk stability. Therefore, much time and consideration must be taken when choosing the height the crown is to be lifted to.

This would be an inappropriate operation if the tree species’ form was of a shrubby nature. This would therefore remove most of the foliage and would also largely unbalance the tree. This procedure should not be carried out if the tree is in decline, poor health or dead, dying or dangerous (DDD) as the operation will remove some of the photosynthetic area the tree uses. This will increase the decline rate of the tree and could lead to death.

If the tree is of great importance to an area or town, (i.e. veteran or ancient) then an alternative solution to crown lifting would be to move the target or object so it is not in range. For example, diverting a footpath around a tree's drip line so the crown lift is not needed. Another solution would be to prop up or cable-brace the low hanging branch. This is a non-invasive solution which in some situations may be more economical and environmentally friendly. [12]

Vista pruning

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Selectively pruning a window of view in a tree.

Crown reduction

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Reducing the height and or spread of a tree by selectively cutting back to smaller branches and in fruit trees for increasing of light interception and enhancing fruit quality.

Pollarding

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A regular form of pruning where certain deciduous species are pruned back to pollard heads every year in the dormant period. This practice is usually commenced on juvenile trees so they can adapt to the harshness of the practice. This practice can be used for tree shaping but is also used in specific species which young branches can be sold for floral arrangements.

Deadheading

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Deadheading is the act of removing spent flowers or flowerheads for aesthetics, to prolong bloom for up to several weeks or promote rebloom, or to prevent seeding.

Time period

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Pruning of trees in Chandigarh

In general, pruning deadwood and small branches can be done at any time of year. Depending on the species, many temperate plants can be pruned either during dormancy in winter, or, for species where winter frost can harm a recently pruned plant, after flowering is completed. In the temperate areas of the northern hemisphere autumn pruning should be avoided, as the spores of disease and decay fungi are abundant at this time of year.

Some woody plants tend to bleed profusely from cuts, such as mesquite and maple. Some callus over slowly, such as magnolia. In this case, they are better pruned during active growth when they can more readily heal. Woody plants that flower early in the season, on spurs that form on wood that has matured the year before, such as apples, should be pruned right after flowering as later pruning will sacrifice flowers the following season. Forsythia, azaleas and lilacs all fall into this category.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ BCMA, Jeremiah_Sandler (2021-02-01). "On Removing Deadwood, Part 1". Tree Care Industry Magazine. Retrieved 2024-05-30.
  2. ^ McKenzie, Rita; Holt, Harvey. "Trees Need a Proper Start – Prune Them Right" (PDF). Urban Forestry Specialists, Forestry and Natural Resources. Purdue University.
  3. ^ Fraedrich, Bruce. “Structural Pruning of Young Trees.” Bartlett Tree Research Laboratories Technical Report.
  4. ^ Encyclopedia of gardening (3rd U.S., rev. and updated ed.). London: DK Pub. 2012. pp. 554–556. ISBN 9780756698287.
  5. ^ a b "Tree Fruit Production Guide". tfpg.cas.psu.edu. Retrieved 20 December 2017.
  6. ^ "Raising - Pruning - Landscape plants - Edward F. Gilman - UF/IFAS". hort.ifas.ufl.edu. Retrieved 2024-05-28.
  7. ^ "Reducing - Pruning - Landscape plants - Edward F. Gilman - UF/IFAS". hort.ifas.ufl.edu. Retrieved 2024-05-28.
  8. ^ "Removal of dead wood - Nelson's Tree Services". Archived from the original on 15 December 2017. Retrieved 20 December 2017.
  9. ^ a b Gilman, Edward F.; Bisson, Amanda (2008-01-24). "Chapter 12 — Developing a Preventative Pruning Program: Young Trees". EDIS. 2008 (1). doi:10.32473/edis-ep315-2007. ISSN 2576-0009.
  10. ^ Gilman, Edward F. (2012). An illustrated guide to pruning (3rd ed.). Clifton Park, NY: Delmar. ISBN 978-1-111-30730-1.
  11. ^ "Crown Reduction - Nelson's Tree Services". Retrieved 20 December 2017.
  12. ^ Smiley, E, and Bruce Fraedrich. “Pruning Standard to Maintain Landscape Trees.” Bartlett Tree Research Laboratories Technical Report.

Bibliography

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  • Sunset Editors, (1995) Western Garden Book, Sunset Books Inc, ISBN 978-0-376-03851-7
  • James, N. D. G, The arboriculturalist's companion, second edition 1990, Blackwell Publishers Ltd, Great Britain.
  • Shigo, A, 1991, Modern arboriculture, third printing, Durham, New Hampshire, USA, Shirwin Dodge Printers.
  • Shigo, A, 1989, A New Tree Biology. Shigo & trees Associates.
  • J.M. Dunn, C.J. Atkinson, N.A. Hipps, 2002, Effects of two different canopy manipulations on leaf water use and photosynthesis as determined by gas exchange and stable isotope discrimination, East Malling, University of Cambridge.
  • Shigo. A. L, 1998, Modern Arboriculture, third printing (2003), USA, Sherwin Dodge Printers
  • British standards 3998:1989, Recommendations for Tree Work.
  • Lonsdale. D, 1999, Principles of tree hazard assessment and management, 6th impression 2008, forestry commission, Great Britain.
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Frequently Asked Questions

Bypass loppers are ideal for clean cuts on live branches, while anvil loppers are better suited for dead or thicker branches. Ratcheting loppers provide increased cutting power for tough jobs.
Lopper size refers to the cutting capacity, typically ranging from 1 inch to 2.5 inches or more. Choose a size appropriate for the diameter of the branches youll be cutting. Larger loppers handle thicker branches but are heavier.
Use a sharpening tool like a file or sharpening stone, following the existing bevel angle of the blade. Maintain a sharp edge for clean, healthy cuts, and to prevent damage to the tree.
Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect your eyes and hands. Be mindful of the cutting blades position, and avoid cutting branches above your head or near power lines. Use proper cutting techniques to prevent accidents.
Clean the blades after each use and remove any sap or debris. Apply a light coat of oil to prevent rust. Store loppers in a dry place, preferably with the blades closed or covered to prevent accidental injury.