Choosing the right pruning saw can feel a bit overwhelming at first, kind of like staring at a wall of spices when all you need is salt and pepper. But trust me, using the correct saw makes pruning so much easier, more efficient, and ultimately, better for your plants. Just like you wouldn't use a butter knife to carve a turkey, you shouldn't use a hefty saw meant for thick branches on delicate rose bushes.
The key is understanding the different types of pruning saws and matching them to the task at hand. For small branches and green wood, a folding saw with fine teeth is your best friend. These are lightweight, easy to maneuver, and make clean cuts that heal quickly. Think of it like a scalpel for your garden. For slightly larger branches, maybe an inch or two thick, a fixed-blade pruning saw with coarser teeth is a good choice. It offers more power and control for those tougher cuts.
Then you have the big guns: bow saws and loppers. Bow saws, with their curved blade and aggressive teeth, are designed for serious pruning jobs, tackling thick branches and even small trees. Loppers, with their long handles and powerful jaws, are great for reaching high branches and making quick work of thicker stems. These are your chain saws of the pruning world, but thankfully, much less intimidating.
Finally, don't forget about the specific needs of your plants. If you're pruning something delicate like a fruit tree, you might consider a specialized saw with a curved blade that helps prevent bark tearing. This minimizes the risk of disease and encourages healthy growth.
So, before you head out to the garden, take a moment to consider the size and type of branches you'll be pruning. Choosing the right saw might seem like a small detail, but it can make a world of difference in the health and beauty of your plants. And, as a bonus, it makes the job a lot more enjoyable too.
Pruning saws are essential tools for maintaining healthy trees and shrubs. But simply owning a saw isn't enough; knowing how to use it correctly is vital for the plant's well-being and for your own safety. Effective pruning cuts minimize damage and promote quicker healing, preventing disease and encouraging vigorous growth. Here are some key techniques to master.
First and foremost, understand the three-cut method for removing larger branches. This prevents bark ripping, a common problem that leaves a large wound susceptible to infection. Begin with an undercut, sawing upwards a few inches from the branch collar (the swollen area at the base of the branch). Next, make a top cut a few inches further out from the undercut, sawing downwards until the branch breaks off. This leaves a small stub, which you remove with the final cut, just outside the branch collar. Cutting flush with the trunk or into the collar itself damages the tree's natural defenses.
For smaller branches and stems, a single, clean cut is usually sufficient. Angle the cut slightly, about 45 degrees, just above a bud that faces the direction you want new growth to emerge. This encourages outward growth and prevents water from collecting on the cut, reducing the risk of rot.
Sharp blades are crucial for clean cuts. A dull saw crushes and tears wood fibers, creating a larger wound and inviting disease. Regularly sharpen your pruning saw or replace blades as needed. Remember to choose the appropriate saw for the job. Smaller saws are ideal for delicate pruning, while larger saws are better suited for thicker branches. Using the wrong saw can lead to inefficient cuts and potential injury.
Finally, proper pruning technique involves more than just making the right cuts. Consider the overall shape and health of the plant. Remove dead, diseased, or crossing branches first. Thin out overcrowded areas to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration. And always step back and assess your work as you go, ensuring a balanced and healthy plant. By mastering these techniques, you'll be well on your way to becoming a more confident and effective pruner.
Maintaining and sharpening your pruning saws is essential for healthy plants and efficient pruning. A sharp saw cuts cleanly, reducing the risk of disease and promoting faster healing. Dull saws, on the other hand, crush and tear branches, leaving ragged wounds that invite infection and decay. Think of it like a surgeon's scalpel – a sharp blade makes a precise incision, while a dull one causes unnecessary trauma.
Regular maintenance prevents rust and keeps the saw's teeth in optimal condition. After each use, brush off any sap and debris with a stiff brush. A wire brush works particularly well for stubborn residue. For saws used on resinous trees, a solvent like WD-40 can help dissolve sticky sap. Once clean, dry the saw thoroughly to prevent rust. Storing the saw in a dry place, ideally in a sheath or scabbard, further protects it from the elements.
Sharpening your pruning saw requires a few specialized tools, but the process is straightforward and yields significant benefits. A saw file, specifically designed for the shape and size of your saw's teeth, is crucial. A vise or clamp to secure the saw will make the sharpening process much easier and safer. Follow the existing angle of the teeth when filing, using smooth, even strokes. Maintaining consistency is key to ensuring all the teeth cut evenly. For tri-cut saws with three cutting surfaces on each tooth, a triangular file is needed.
How often you need to sharpen depends on frequency of use and the types of wood you're pruning. If you notice the saw binding or requiring more effort to cut, it's definitely time to sharpen. With proper care and regular sharpening, your pruning saw will remain a valuable tool in your gardening arsenal for years to come. A little maintenance goes a long way in ensuring clean cuts, healthy plants, and enjoyable pruning sessions.
Pruning saws are indispensable tools for maintaining healthy trees and shrubs, but they can also be hazardous if not handled with proper care. Taking the right safety precautions is crucial to avoid injuries and ensure effective pruning.
First and foremost, always inspect your pruning saw before each use. Check for loose blades, cracked handles, and rusted or damaged teeth. A compromised saw is an accident waiting to happen. Tighten any loose parts and replace any damaged components before you begin. Sharp blades are essential for clean cuts and reduce the risk of the saw slipping. A dull saw requires more force, increasing the chance of losing control.
Appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) is non-negotiable. Eye protection is paramount, as sawdust and small branches can easily fly up and cause eye injuries. Wear safety glasses or goggles specifically designed for impact protection. Gloves are also crucial to protect your hands from cuts, blisters, and splinters. Choose sturdy gloves that provide a good grip while still allowing for dexterity. Consider wearing long sleeves and pants to further shield your skin from scratches and potential contact with irritating plant sap.
When pruning, maintain a stable stance and be mindful of your surroundings. Avoid overreaching or working on unstable ground. If you need to reach higher branches, use a ladder or pruning pole designed for the task. Ensure the ladder is placed on firm, level ground and that someone is holding it steady. Never stand on the top rung of a ladder.
The cutting technique itself is also important for safety. Always cut away from your body, keeping a firm grip on the saw handle. Use smooth, controlled strokes, allowing the saw's teeth to do the work. Avoid forcing the saw, as this can lead to the blade binding or breaking. Be particularly cautious when pruning branches under tension, as they can spring back unexpectedly. Make a series of small cuts rather than one large cut to release the tension gradually.
Finally, after you've finished pruning, clean your saw thoroughly and store it safely. Remove any sap or debris, and apply a light coat of oil to prevent rust. Store the saw in a dry place, preferably in a sheath or with a blade guard to protect the teeth and prevent accidental cuts.
By following these simple safety precautions, you can enjoy the benefits of a well-maintained garden while minimizing the risk of injury. Remember, a little preparation and mindful practice can go a long way in ensuring a safe and productive pruning experience.
Arboriculture (/ˈɑËÂÂÂrbÉ™rɪˌkÊŒltʃər, É‘ËÂÂÂrˈbÉâ€ÂÂËÂÂÂr-/)[1] is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants. The science of arboriculture studies how these plants grow and respond to cultural practices and to their environment. The practice of arboriculture includes cultural techniques such as selection, planting, training, fertilization, pest and pathogen control, pruning, shaping, and removal.
A person who practices or studies arboriculture can be termed an arborist or an arboriculturist. A tree surgeon is more typically someone who is trained in the physical maintenance and manipulation of trees and therefore more a part of the arboriculture process rather than an arborist. Risk management, legal issues, and aesthetic considerations have come to play prominent roles in the practice of arboriculture. Businesses often need to hire arboriculturists to complete "tree hazard surveys" and generally manage the trees on-site to fulfill occupational safety and health obligations.[citation needed]
Arboriculture is primarily focused on individual woody plants and trees maintained for permanent landscape and amenity purposes, usually in gardens, parks or other populated settings, by arborists, for the enjoyment, protection, and benefit of people.[citation needed]
Arboricultural matters are also considered to be within the practice of urban forestry yet the clear and separate divisions are not distinct or discreet.[citation needed]
Tree benefits are the economic, ecological, social and aesthetic use, function purpose, or services of a tree (or group of trees), in its situational context in the landscape.
A tree defect is any feature, condition, or deformity of a tree that indicates weak structure or instability that could contribute to tree failure.
Common types of tree defects:
Codominant stems: two or more stems that grow upward from a single point of origin and compete with one another.
Included bark: bark is incorporated in the joint between two limbs, creating a weak attachment
Dead, diseased, or broken branches:
Cracks
Cavity and hollows: sunken or open areas wherein a tree has suffered injury followed by decay. Further indications include: fungal fruiting structures, insect or animal nests.
Lean: a lean of more than 40% from vertical presents a risk of tree failure
Taper: change in diameter over the length of trunks branches and roots
Epicormic branches (water sprouts in canopy or suckers from root system): often grow in response to major damage or excessive pruning
Roots:
Proper tree installation ensures the long-term viability of the tree and reduces the risk of tree failure.
Quality nursery stock must be used. There must be no visible damage or sign of disease. Ideally the tree should have good crown structure. A healthy root ball should not have circling roots and new fibrous roots should be present at the soil perimeter. Girdling or circling roots should be pruned out. Excess soil above the root flare should be removed immediately, since it presents a risk of disease ingress into the trunk.
Appropriate time of year to plant: generally fall or early spring in temperate regions of the northern hemisphere.
Planting hole: the planting hole should be 3 times the width of the root ball. The hole should be dug deep enough that when the root ball is placed on the substrate, the root flare is 3–5cm above the surrounding soil grade. If soil is left against the trunk, it may lead to bark, cambium and wood decay. Angular sides to the planting hole will encourage roots to grow radially from the trunk, rather than circling the planting hole. In urban settings, soil preparation may include the use of:
Tree wells: a zone of mulch can be installed around the tree trunk to: limit root zone competition (from turf or weeds), reduce soil compaction, improve soil structure, conserve moisture, and keep lawn equipment at a distance. No more than 5–10cm of mulch should be used to avoid suffocating the roots. Mulch must be kept approximately 20cm from the trunk to avoid burying the root flare. With city trees additional tree well preparation includes:
Tree grates/grill and frames: limit compaction on root zone and mechanical damage to roots and trunk
Root barriers: forces roots to grow down under surface asphalt/concrete/pavers to limit infrastructure damage from roots
Staking: newly planted, immature trees should be staked for one growing season to allow for the root system to establish. Staking for longer than one season should only be considered in situations where the root system has failed to establish sufficient structural support. Guy wires can be used for larger, newly planted trees. Care must be used to avoid stem girdling from the support system ties.
Irrigation: irrigation infrastructure may be installed to ensure a regular water supply throughout the lifetime of the tree. Wicking beds are an underground reservoir from which water is wicked into soil. Watering bags may be temporarily installed around tree stakes to provide water until the root system becomes established. Permeable paving allows for water infiltration in paved urban settings, such as parks and walkways.
Within the United Kingdom trees are considered as a material consideration within the town planning system and may be conserved as amenity landscape[2] features.
The role of the Arborist or Local Government Arboricultural Officer is likely to have a great effect on such matters. Identification of trees of high quality which may have extensive longevity is a key element in the preservation of trees.
Urban and rural trees may benefit from statutory protection under the Town and Country Planning[3] system. Such protection can result in the conservation and improvement of the urban forest as well as rural settlements.
Historically the profession divides into the operational and professional areas. These might be further subdivided into the private and public sectors. The profession is broadly considered as having one trade body known as the Arboricultural Association, although the Institute of Chartered Foresters offers a route for professional recognition and chartered arboriculturist status.
The qualifications associated with the industry range from vocational to Doctorate. Arboriculture is a comparatively young industry.
An arborist, or (less commonly) arboriculturist, is a professional in the practice of arboriculture, which is the cultivation, management, and study of individual trees, shrubs, vines, and other perennial woody plants in dendrology and horticulture.[citation needed]
Arborists generally focus on the health and safety of individual plants and trees, rather than managing forests or harvesting wood (silviculture or forestry). An arborist's scope of work is therefore distinct from that of either a forester or a logger.[citation needed]
In order for arborists to work near power wires, either additional training is required or they need to be certified as a Qualified Line Clearance Arborist or Utility Arborist (there may be different terminology for various countries). There is a variety of minimum distances that must be kept from power wires depending on voltage, however the common distance for low voltage lines in urban settings is 10 feet (about 3 metres).[1]
Arborists who climb (as not all do) can use a variety of techniques to ascend into the tree. The least invasive, and most popular technique used is to ascend on rope. There are two common methods of climbing, Single Rope System (SRS) and Moving Rope System (MRS). When personal safety is an issue, or the tree is being removed, arborists may use 'spikes', (also known as 'gaffs' or 'spurs') attached to their chainsaw boots with straps to ascend and work. Spikes wound the tree, leaving small holes where each step has been.[citation needed]
An arborist's work may involve very large and complex trees, or ecological communities and their abiotic components in the context of the landscape ecosystem. These may require monitoring and treatment to ensure they are healthy, safe, and suitable to property owners or community standards. This work may include some or all of the following: planting; transplanting; pruning; structural support; preventing, or diagnosing and treating phytopathology or parasitism; preventing or interrupting grazing or predation; installing lightning protection; and removing vegetation deemed as hazardous, an invasive species, a disease vector, or a weed.[citation needed]
Arborists may also plan, consult, write reports and give legal testimony. While some aspects of this work are done on the ground or in an office, much of it is done by arborists who perform tree services and who climb the trees with ropes, harnesses and other equipment. Lifts and cranes may be used too. The work of all arborists is not the same. Some may just provide a consulting service; others may perform climbing, pruning and planting: whilst others may provide a combination of all of these services.[2]
Arborists gain qualifications to practice arboriculture in a variety of ways and some arborists are more qualified than others. Experience working safely and effectively in and around trees is essential. Arborists tend to specialize in one or more disciplines of arboriculture, such as diagnosis and treatment of pests, diseases and nutritional deficiencies in trees, climbing and pruning, cabling and lightning protection, or consultation and report writing. All these disciplines are related to one another and some arborists are very well experienced in all areas of tree work, however not all arborists have the training or experience to properly practice every discipline.[citation needed]
Arborists choose to pursue formal certification, which is available in some countries and varies somewhat by location. An arborist who holds certification in one or more disciplines may be expected to participate in rigorous continuing education requirements to ensure constant improvement of skills and techniques.[citation needed]
In Australia, arboricultural education and training are streamlined countrywide through a multi-disciplinary vocational education, training, and qualification authority called the Australian Qualifications Framework, which offers varying levels of professional qualification. Government institutions including Technical and Further Education TAFE offer Certificate III or a diploma in arboriculture as well as some universities.[3][4] There are also many private institutions covering similar educational framework in each state. Recognition of prior learning is also an option for practicing arborists with 10 or more years of experience with no prior formal training. It allows them to be assessed and fast track their certification.[citation needed]
In France, a qualified arborist must hold a Management of Ornamental Trees certificate, and a qualified arborist climber must hold a Pruning and Care of Trees certificate; both delivered by the French Ministry of Agriculture.[5][6]
In the UK, an arborist can gain qualifications up to and including a master's degree. College-based courses include further education qualifications, such as national certificate, national diploma, while higher education courses in arboriculture include foundation degree, bachelor's degree and master's degree.[citation needed]
In the US, a Certified Arborist (CA) is a professional who has over three years of documented and verified experience and has passed a rigorous written test from the International Society of Arboriculture. Other designations include Municipal Specialist, Utility Specialist and Board Certified Master Arborist (BCMA). The USA and Canada additionally have college-based training which, if passed, will give the certificate of Qualified Arborist. The Qualified Arborist can then be used to offset partial experience towards the Certified Arborist.
Tree Risk Assessment Qualified credential (TRAQ), designed by the International Society of Arboriculture, was launched in 2013. At that time people holding the TRACE credential were transferred over to the TRAQ credential.[citation needed]
In Canada, there are provincially governed apprenticeship programs that allow arborists' to work near power lines upon completion. These apprenticeship programs must meet the provincial reregulations (For example, in B.C. they must meet WorkSafeBC G19.30), and individuals must ensure they meet the requirements of the owner of the power system.[citation needed]
Trees in urban landscape settings are often subject to disturbances, whether human or natural, both above and below ground. They may require care to improve their chances of survival following damage from either biotic or abiotic causes. Arborists can provide appropriate solutions, such as pruning trees for health and good structure, for aesthetic reasons, and to permit people to walk under them (a technique often referred to as "crown raising"), or to keep them away from wires, fences and buildings (a technique referred to as "crown reduction").[7] Timing and methods of treatment depend on the species of tree and the purpose of the work. To determine the best practices, a thorough knowledge of local species and environments is essential.[citation needed]
There can be a vast difference between the techniques and practices of professional arborists and those of inadequately trained tree workers. Some commonly offered "services" are considered unacceptable by modern arboricultural standards and may seriously damage, disfigure, weaken, or even kill trees. One such example is tree topping, lopping, or "hat-racking", where entire tops of trees or main stems are removed, generally by cross-cutting the main stem(s) or leaders, leaving large unsightly stubs. Trees that manage to survive such treatment are left prone to a spectrum of detrimental effects, including vigorous but weakly attached regrowth, pest susceptibility, pathogen intrusion, and internal decay.[8]
Pruning should only be done with a specific purpose in mind. Every cut is a wound, and every leaf lost is removal of photosynthetic potential. Proper pruning can be helpful in many ways, but should always be done with the minimum amount of live tissue removed.[9]
In recent years, research has proven that wound dressings such as paint, tar or other coverings are unnecessary and may harm trees. The coverings may encourage growth of decay-causing fungi. Proper pruning, by cutting through branches at the right location, can do more to limit decay than wound dressing [10]
Chemicals can be applied to trees for insect or disease control through soil application, stem injections or spraying. Compacted or disturbed soils can be improved in various ways.[citation needed]
Arborists can also assess trees to determine the health, structure, safety or feasibility within a landscape and in proximity to humans. Modern arboriculture has progressed in technology and sophistication from practices of the past. Many current practices are based on knowledge gained through recent research, including that of Alex Shigo, considered one "father" of modern arboriculture.[11]
Depending on the jurisdiction, there may be a number of legal issues surrounding the practices of arborists, including boundary issues, public safety issues, "heritage" trees of community value, and "neighbour" issues such as ownership, obstruction of views, impacts of roots crossing boundaries, nuisance problems, disease or insect quarantines, and safety of nearby trees or plants that may be affected.[citation needed]
Arborists are frequently consulted to establish the factual basis of disputes involving trees, or by private property owners seeking to avoid legal liability through the duty of care.[12] Arborists may be asked to assess the value of a tree[13] in the process of an insurance claim for trees damaged or destroyed,[14] or to recover damages resulting from tree theft or vandalism.[15] In cities with tree preservation orders an arborist's evaluation of tree hazard may be required before a property owner may remove a tree, or to assure the protection of trees in development plans and during construction operations. Carrying out work on protected trees and hedges is illegal without express permission from local authorities,[16] and can result in legal action including fines.[17] Homeowners who have entered into contracts with a Homeowner's association (see also Restrictive covenants) may need an arborists' professional opinion of a hazardous condition prior to removing a tree, or may be obligated to assure the protection of the views of neighboring properties prior to planting a tree or in the course of pruning.[18] Arborists may be consulted in forensic investigations where the evidence of a crime can be determined within the growth rings of a tree, for example. Arborists may be engaged by one member of a dispute in order to identify factual information about trees useful to that member of the dispute, or they can be engaged as an expert witness providing unbiased scientific knowledge in a court case. Homeowners associations seeking to write restrictive covenants, or legislative bodies seeking to write laws involving trees, may seek the counsel of arborists in order to avoid future difficulties.[19]
Before undertaking works in the UK, arborists have a legal responsibility to survey trees for wildlife, especially bats, which are given particular legal protection. In addition, any tree in the UK can be covered by a tree preservation order and it is illegal to conduct any work on a tree, including deadwooding or pruning, before permission has been sought from the local council.[citation needed]
The protagonist in Italo Calvino's novel The Baron in the Trees lives life on the ground as a boy and spends the rest of his life swinging from tree to tree in the Italian countryside. As a young man he helps the local fruit farmers by pruning their trees.[citation needed]
Some noteworthy arborists include: